Caterpillar D6M dozer conversion

[Rich]

Happy with the new mounts for the blade, and new lower mounts for the right and left turning hydraulics, I test fit it all. That is when I discovered that the hydraulic mounts were still in line with the original blade width. So, I hacked everything off, and started over with the hydraulics.

[Rich]

Here is the second attempt, with the hydraulic mounts where they should be. If you notice in the photo above, there is a sort of square area where the mounts are. The mounts did not break clean, so I used a Dremel to file down that area. Rather than taking a ton of time to fill it in, I just used some .020 styrene and made new squares. Is in an area that really wont be seen. It also allows me to glue plastic to plastic, giving me a stronger bond. After a test fit, it all works quite well. Next up for the blade assembly, will be to make new hydraulic cylinders for the blade angle feature. The units that came on the original dozer both broke when removing them. I have also taken the longer tips off of the bottom of the blade, and filed the edges smooth.

[Rich]

I made the new hydraulic cylinders using 1/16 aluminum tubing. I squeezed one end in a pair of pliers, giving me a flat surface. I rounded the flat surface off, and got it to the size I needed. Then I marked the cylinder's length, and cut it with a tubing cutter. Once I was satisfied with the lengths, I marked the flat surface for holes, and hand drilled the holes for mounting. In this photo, they cylinders are held in for measuring, with a straight pin. I have started sanding the blade and all of its parts, and the U Frame. It could be dry enough soon for primer and painting.

[Rich]

Time to get back to the body. As I noted earlier, I wanted to use the D6 H body, with the D6 R chassis and cab. No easy feat here. As you can see in the comparison photo, I had to mill off all of the decking, and part of the area around where the cowl and engine cover meets, to get the right shape for the cab. I knew I had to add to the cowl, and the D6 H gave me a better starting point than the D6 R. It took several days to do all the milling. I had to go in steps, taking one section at a time, and making sure it all lined up with the cab parts.

[Rich]

It took many attempts to get the chassis and body to match up. I had to make a few cuts in the body, and keep moving the body to the front and then to the rear, to get the look I wanted. Once I was satisfied with how they would mate up, I cut new notches in the body to accept the axle for the high sprocket. Both models had the sprocket too low and too far forward for a D6 M. Once I got those cut, I measured the angle of the exterior walls of the body where it meets the chassis, and cut new plastic sides. You can see in the photo that the new walls will hide all of the work on the body where it would meet up with the metal chassis. There is still some metal to metal contact, but not a lot. Once I got the side pieces in, I sanded off the top, and started notching out the rear. I also drilled out the holes for the high sprocket axle. This morning I started the final sanding and filling of gaps. Still a long way to go.

[Rich]

While other sections are drying from putty or glue, I have started on the cab and deck. I did not like the looks of the D6 R or D6 H decks. Neither one looked correct. I had another 1:64 scale dozer, more of a generic toy, that looked pretty good. I had gotten it for the blade for another project. So I added some .020 styrene to the rear to make it a little bigger. I had to add some to the top to straighten out an angle. I milled just a bit off of the inside, where it was just rough from the casting. I also milled a bit off of the D6 R cab, so that it would fit inside. I had to add a little plastic to the corners of the cab due to the way it was cut. The cab fits down in the deck recess very well, and the deck fits really well on top of the body. Some filler work and final sanding has been done on the top and rear, in preparation for primer tomorrow, if the humidity stays away.

[Rich]

A few years back, I ran a sheet of photo etch parts, that had dozer stuff on it for another project. With a bit of trimming, one of the engine covers I did fit really well. So I used them on each side. I have also added the mounting pads for the (ROPS) roll over protective structure. That will get added after final painting. I also got a coat of primer on the body and chassis today. Very little touch up sanding needs to be done.

[Rich]

I wanted to have a brush guard on top of the blade, as shown in the first photo. However, I did not want to scratch build it. It would involve building a jig, and a ton of cutting plastic strips and trying to get it all aligned. I kept looking at photo etch parts, and all sorts of plastic parts from various models. Then it hit me, some H.O. scale buildings have fence and railing parts. I found two pieces of ornamental iron gates that I thought might work. They are from an H.O. scale accessory kit. I cut off the portion that protrudes from the bottom rail, and glued them together. I let it dry for a few hours, then went to work measuring. I found the center point on the dozer blade, and measured out to where the taper is. I cut them at this height. Once it was cut using a razor blade, I measured the taper, and cut both ends. When it was cut, I lightly sanded all of the cut surfaces. I added .020 styrene strips to the top and taper, and sanded smooth when dry. I was going after the look, not and exact piece. I think it will work just fine.

[Chariots of Fire]

That's really using your resources! Nice work on that grill piece to find the materials and massage them into what you needed.

[Rich]

Thanks Charlie, I am trying to get some of these multi-year projects finished up.